TPO Presents: The bible of cleaning, degreasing, and removing rust in motorsports applications.

Mechanics, customizers, and habitual tinkerers in the motorsports field are constantly faced with keeping their vehicles and their parts looking and performing their best. So, how best to clean things up? We felt that we'd put together some information to help.

There are basically three types of grime, and we feel there are different ways to attack each one. In the following text we'll explain what characterizes each type of grime and how to deal with it, safely and cheaply.

Grime type #1: Dirt

What is it? Dirt is comprised mostly of...well...dirt. Dirt, mud, dust, dead bugs, food stains, are all in this category.

How do I remove it? SOAP is key here. You can't go wrong with dishwashing detergent and warm water. Don't waste your money on expensive "super cleaners". Get some dishwashing detergent and a brush, and you're all set.

Grime type #2: Oily-Sticky Gunk

What is it?

Oil, grease, transmission fluid, motor oil, gear lube, chain lube, gummy carburetor depoisits, paint, tar, sticky stuff, glue, asphalt, label residue, etc.

How do I remove it?

The key to removing something like this is to find a polar solvent. In layman's terms, you want a petroleum-based solvent. These are the kinds of things you need to use outdoors or with good ventilation. Here are some of our favorites:

1,1,1 Tricholorethane: sometimes called "trichloroethane". It is sold in hardware stores (look for "carbo-trichlor") and it is also sold in spray cans as electrical contact cleaner, some kinds of carb cleaner, etc. Another good source for it is the product "Gun Scrubber" sold in sporting goods stores. This is a very strong, very quickly evaporating solvent that removes this kind of gunk like nothing else on this planet.
3M #08984 "General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner": This is available at Auto Parts stores. It is excellent for removing glue, sticky residue, etc.
Laquer Thinner: Available at any hardware store or home center. You can buy this in 1-gallon containers for about $7.00. It makes a great solvent for soaking engine parts, motorcycle chains, carb parts, etc. It is cheap and is very good for removing oily & sticky gunk.
Denatured Alcohol: Like laquer thinner, you can get this at any hardware store or home center. It is cheap and comes in quart or gallon cans. This stuff is great becasue it will NOT harm plastic or most paints. It is especially good for cleaning off electrical components.

Things to note: These solvents will NOT harm metal, chrome, or glass. However, they WILL harm some plastics, paint, and rubber. If you need to clean these materials, test the solvent first to see if it will harm the surface. The 3M product described above is a good choice if you have to clean plastic or painted surfaces--I have never found a plastic or paint that it would harm, but be careful anyway.

Grime type #3: Crusty-rusty gunk

What is it? Rust. Oxidization. Baked-on hard and DRY deposits.

How do I remove it? The key to removing these kinds of deposits is with an ionic solvent--Acid. This is NOT dangerous or hard to do, you just have to be careful. Follow these directions and you'll be set.

First, make sure the parts are free from any kind of oil or grease. Use soap and water to make sure there is no oil present on the parts.

Now you're ready for cleaning. The solvent of choice is HCl, or Hydrochloric Acid. It is commonly called "Muriatic Acid". You can buy it at hardware stores and building supply centers, where it is sold for cleaning masonry. It is also available at pool stores, where it is used for adjusting the pH of swimming pools. Muriatic Acid is VERY cheap, at about $2 per gallon. Be careful with it, becasue it can and will cause burns if you spill it. Work outside and wear rubber gloves. Don't inhale the vapors. Get a plastic tub or bucket large enough to immerse your part in, and consider finding some string or tongs for use in handling parts. Make up a solution of about 3 parts warm (not hot) water to one part acid. Fill the container with water first, and then add the acid slowly. Don't just dump the acid in there or you could splash yourself. Once you've got the solution ready, add your parts. The solution will bubble and fizz and your crusty gunk will disappear.

It is critical to understand what's going on here. The acid is dissolving the gunk. However, it will also dissolve metal--though at a much slower rate than it dissolves rust or oxidiziation. Keep an eye on the parts. Leave them in the acid bath just long enough to remove the gunk and then take the parts out right away, and rinse them off with a LOT of water. Once you've rinsed the parts, you'll want to apply some WD-40 or something to prevent the rust from coming back. It is safe to let steel, brass, and copper parts sit for a while in the acid bath. However, aluminum and magnesium will be dissolved much faster. If you need to clean magnesium or aluminum, use a weaker solution of acid (8 water : 1 acid) and be very attentive during the cleaning. If you have to clean heavily rusted steel parts, you can use a stronger solution of acid (1:1 water and acid is OK).

When you're done with the acid dip, you can dispose of it by pouring it down a drain accompanied by a LOT of water.

Things to note: Acid cleaning will NOT harm plastic, glass, paint, and most kinds of rubber. Those materials can soak a long time without any ill effects. However, it is unwise to allow metal parts to sit in the acid bath longer than nessissary. Acid cleaning will strip the anodizing off off aluminum parts. Careful!

Other tips:

Want to clean a dirty performance air filter, such as a K&N? A dishwasher works very well. Put the filter on the top shelf, dirty side down, and you'll come back to a clean filter that's ready to re-oil and re-install.

Need to get that black carbon stuff off a cylinder head? Get the head nice and warm by leaving it in the sun on a hot day or putting it in a 200-degree F oven. Take it outside and spray some oven cleaner on it. Come back in 10 minuites, and bingo! Clean.

Need to clean some corroded battery terminals in your bike, car, ATV, or watercraft? Mix up a paste of baking soda and water. Apply the paste to the corroded areas and let it sit for about 20 minuites. Rinse it off, and the majority of the gunk will be gone. You can use a toothbrush to help if you encounter some particularly bad spots.